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5/22/08
Long Long Long
Jambo!
Well I have officially completed my first full day here in Kenya. The plane rides here were really great, and I was in amazement that I didn’t have my “White-Knuckle syndrome.” I also was astonished at how the plane ride meals were probably some of the best I’ve had in awhile –yes, sad coming from an Italian girl. Those British people feed you every two minutes.
PICTURE OF FOOD
We were lucky enough to see both the sunrise and sunset while we flew… it gave “ROYGBIV” a whole new meaning. The colors were phenomenal, and I took several photographs. We stayed in Heathrow airport in London for about four hours. I must admit the experience was entirely enjoyable considering 75% of the individuals present there sounded like one of the Beatles.
PICTURE SUNRISE
PICTURE OF ME AND SAM
Dad, here is a message for you, and I totally should have expected this…the man next to me on the plane was reading “THE SHACK”. Yep, you heard me right. Ugh I can’t believe it. I finally escape our house where I have to hear you discuss the book every single hour you are awake, and the man sitting next to me was reading it as well. This man is actually a pastor within one of the churches in Nairobi.
Our entrance into Kenya was very warming, and the tour guidebooks did not lie when they claimed Kenyans love to smile, and are always quick for a good laugh. Every one was very helpful and seemed quite happy to have visitors. Dan picked us up at the airport, and his friend drove us to where we are currently living. I have to be honest- I thought I was going to die on the way to the house. The way the people drive here is crazy! I felt like an idiot when Dan offered me the front seat, and I tried to get in on the wrong side. I am a typical American, and I cannot help that I prefer the left side of the car. The time difference is rather confusing (add 7 hours to Jersey), but luckily I did manage to fall asleep when we arrived.
During the Kenya skirmishes and chaos (Luo/Kikuyu) Dan, Edwina, and their family (Luo/Lua) were forced to move. They lived at a compound with other families, but “feared greatly for [their] lives.” Consequently, they moved to a guarded community. Dan and Edwina are wonderful. They have two children, Kyle (4 months), and Linyu (6 years). Mom, they were extremely grateful for the presents I bought them. Edwina especially loved the mugs (Teddy-I still think we should have gotten those Death Row Records mugs, but whatever), and apparently Dan was in dire need of a new wallet.
This place is very nice. As of right now I am only sharing a bed with Sam, but in two weeks or so there will be four of us in the room. Three Canadians are living here with us currently as well. Note- it is weird that when people ask you where you are from you don’t respond “Jersey,” rather “US.” These three are my age, and have been traveling all throughout Africa for over four months now (including but not limited to Rwanda, Tanzania, and South Africa). Any way, on with the day- I woke up at about 7 (and for the record, entirely drenched in sweat). My sleep was pretty good considering I had no pillow and a rock for a bed (I’m not complaining, merely pointing out the adjustments). It could be considerably worse. We had some chai and 2 slices of bread for breakfast, and there was no lunch. We accompanied Edwina and the Canadians through Kibera. We walked to the “yaya,” caught a matatu, and then continued walking along.
Kibera, is an incredible slum… google it, no for real google it. It was shocking. Kibera spans for miles. The hills entirely composed of trash. Literally, mountains of trash with goats picking through it.

PICTURE SLUMS
PICTURE HOUSE
Stray dogs, chickens, and other animals roamed aimlessly along the roads. I use the word “roads” rather lightly considering these are compiled of anything but pavement. As we walked through the slums the recent conflict was apparent. Many of the shacks had been burnt to the ground. Sayings such as “We want peace, but they want war,” “stop the war,” and “no more teargas peace for Kenyans” was clearly painted on the shacks and walls.
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The crimes committed in this area just shortly ago are heartbreaking…yet the people remain so friendly. These people lack completely of life’s bare necessities, and yet they continue on offering a smiling face as they walk barefoot through sewage daily.
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Those back at home, for example in New York City, have countless materialistic possessions and push through crowds frustrated and annoyed with the world as well as any individual around them. Some look down on these Kenyans (most Africans in general) with ignorance. Kenyans should not be looked down on because of how they live, but rather we should look up to them for their willpower for living. We continued on through Kibera until we reached one of the schools. There is just so much to say, but I cannot find the words to say it. I wish I was more capable of writing eloquently or I possessed the technique for my rants to reach you. The school’s floor is entirely dirt, and it was not until recently that they had a few desks. Kenyans hold education as a priority, and everywhere you look you see children in school uniforms. This school, like most here, is simply a tin shack.
PICTURE
Being white here is either like being an alien or a celebrity… although the two overlap quite frequently I am sure. After staring at us for about ten minutes, the children decided to come and talk with us. They were excited to get the chance to talk to mzungus!
PICTURE OF THEM AT DOOR
PICTURE OF SAM AND BOY HAND
This experience was absolutely amazing, and the hour spent with these children so easily beats out any day I have ever had. The children want a piece of you, any piece of you at all. At any given point within that hour I’d say there were at least ten children hanging on to each one of us. The children loved high-fives, and literally did not stop for probably twenty minutes straight… my hands still hurt. Sam and I attempted to show them “Miss Mary Mac”, but I’m not sure if any of them fully got it. The children were dumbfounded at my hairy Italian arms (thanks Mom and Dad), as they do not have hair on their arms. They loved touching my head repeatedly shouting “soft”, and quickly noticed the differences between our hair’s textures. I’m sure those of you reading this are in shock as you know up until this point I pretty much hated being around any child (other than LD ha!).
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While I did not want to leave, Sam and I had to continue on. We went to the Nakumatt to pick up some bottled water and exchange money.
Afterwards, we walked several more miles to reach Cheryl’s Orphanage. This is where Sam worked last year. This was definitely an experience. There were sixty or so orphans living there. The Christian influence is apparent all through out this place. The children were ecstatic to see us. All you have to do is smile at them, and they light up. They chase you around singing, “How are you?” repeatedly. The owner gathered all the children up, and they sang us several songs. It was really beautiful. We taught class for about 40 minutes or so. Thursday is art day so we just let them read or draw. All of the students who drew chose either a house, or a picture from the reading book to draw. Some even copied the words from the book on the paper. No one drew anything just from imagination, which I thought was kind of interesting. After class several children gave me the pictures that I’ll unquestionably be keeping. Even after the man walked by ringing the bell to signify that classes were over many children decided to stay. They wanted to read, and since there were not enough books for each during class they would stay after to read them. I don’t know many of us who would make that choice huh? After a while we returned back to where we are staying. We had dinner, which consisted of cabbage, avocado, oranges, and plain penne (yes Mom penne!). There was also a type of meat, but I chose not to eat it (meats around here make me considerably nervous). Dinner here is around 8:30-9, which is a little odd to me, and though I had not eaten since 8 am I did not find myself very hungry. Don’t worry Mom, I still ate a lot.
Dan and I just finished discussing my plans for the clinic. Apparently, he was under the impression that I would be traveling to Ugenya for a few months to work at his clinic there (NOTE: Ugenya is about 8 hours from here). I explained that at this time I do wholly comfortable being that far away from Sam. He has decided to try and find me a clinic job within Kibera, but I will be traveling to Ugenya occasionally for a week or so to work there as well. The Ugenyan clinic is in the middle of the bush, and you can imagine how different that experience will be. It is hard to treat patients when there is no electricity, water, etc. I am very much looking forward to it. Dan is specifically working on trying to find a way to teach HIV/AIDS patients to grow their own food and have better nutrition… the patients who are lucky enough to be on Antiretrovirals VERY often do not have decent amount of food intake. The toxicity of these drugs is mind blowing to begin with, and include an empty stomach the ramifications are dreadful. Dan has made it clear he wants so much to give these people hope. He is very much looking forward to me working there because he feels the patients will love to know that they are “considered human.” Okay this entry is way too long. La la salama.

Oh for the record, “Hakuna matata…” yeh they actually do say it, not just on Lion King!

5/23/08 Living is easy with eyes closed- misunderstanding all you see
Today Dan took me to the clinic I will be working at in Kibera. It is called St. Mary’s. It is a very small clinic, and I am very excited to working there. We then took a VERY VERY strenuous walk through Kibera up to the school. I think we walk on average 10-15 miles each day, and I love it.
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While we were walking today I do have to admit at one point I was a bit nervous. Just standing on the corner were two officers holding AK-47s.
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At the school Sam and I gave out some of the clothes/toys we brought here.
PICTURE OF SAM HANDING OUT CLOTHES
PICTURE OF THEM HOLDING CLOTHES
The children and teachers were so appreciative. After this we again played with the children for an hour or two.
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The kids are so full of life and smiles despite lacking so much.
BLACK AND WHITE PIC
PEACE SIGN PICS
JENNY LOPEZ!
One boy I played with was named Jeff. Jeff was born HIV positive, and is frequently sick. The teacher explained to me how she often feels sad every time she looks at him. Knowing someone’s status really does change the way you look at him or her, often times with pity. It is so tragic to watch Jeff, and how he is doomed to this life at no fault of his own. The Madame teacher then asked me several question about HIV/AIDS. She wanted to know if it was possible for Jeff to ever be considered “HIV negative,” and how long he would live. It was a little awkward for me to explain these things, but I attempted with the best of my knowledge.
PICTURES OF JEFF
Oh! The teachers also let us try some of her porridge- yum!
On the way home today we walked through the Toi market, and I bought two bananas (indizi mbizi talfadali!).
PICTURE
Tonight I think Sam and I are going out to dinner with one of her friends from here.

On an ending note- Sam has explained that I have started to get my “Kibera Tan.” You think you are tan, but soon realize when they wash off that it’s all just dirt. Let me tell you I’ve never been so dirty before (when I blow my nose it is actually black). I really enjoy it!
Baadaye.
Just got back from dinner with Sam and her old taxi driver friend. He took us to an Ethiopian restaurant pretty close by. This was surely an experience. I had never had this type of food, but it was delicious. The restaurant ceiling was made out of baggy cloth, and was really cool to look at. All of the tables were made out of a large tree that was sliced (Dad you would have loved it). Paul and Jackie ordered for us (we had NO idea what we were doing). First, they brought out towels and a teapot filled with hot water to wash our hands. Then they brought out a large plate with a very large piece of fermented white anjeera, and poured salad as well as meat with some peppers on top. Then they poured a sauce on as well- this was made up of plenty of spices and lentils I think. Every one shares the food and eats with their hands (so I’m pretty glad we washed our hands before). I also got some juice that was very thick but delicious! It had avocado, passion fruit, and mango blended together. The food was really great, and I would definitely try that again. I was a little weary about eating the meat because I try to stay away from it around here. When you walk the streets and see chickens eating from the sewage it kind of makes ya think twice… or fifteen times.
Paul told us that a few months ago he was stopped at a light with one of his clients, and some men put a gun in his car and robbed him. I’m glad things have died down a lot since a few months ago. It was really interesting to see Paul’s Kenyan perspective on foreigners. He said that Kenyans always love foreigners, and we could walk through Nairobi in the middle of the night and not get robbed. Sam and I think this was a drastic exaggeration considering Nairobi is the most dangerous city in Africa. We asked Paul if Kenyans were happy about the joint agreement. He said that Kenyans do not want violence. They just want to work in a peaceful environment. On that note- I saw a sign today that said “Police and government, stop killing innocent Kenyans- we want peace.”

5/24/08 Old Brown Shoe
Today is Saturday, and has been a pretty easy day. Sam and I woke up pretty early, had some breakfast, and just listened to music.
PICTURE ON SWING
Around 10 we took the bus with Dan downtown. It was here we met up with his brother and his family. His brother is severely crippled (and I mean this to the full extent- his legs are in no way functional). During the skirmishes so much was taken from his family- including his wheelchair. This is just so heartbreaking. He sells candy to provide for his family, and as you can imagine this occupation does not bring in many shillings. His family consists of himself, three children, and his wife. We met at a café, and gave them some clothes and shoes. The one pair of shoes (Vans) changes to pink in the sunlight, and these were given to the oldest daughter. They did not speak much English, but I think they finally grasped the concept.
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Some clothes and shoes were given to the baby as well. They cannot afford diapers so they just use a washcloth. The baby needed clothes so badly that they changed her into the clothes we brought immediately in the middle of the café. Dan wants desperately to get these kids sponsored. The people here need so much- things we take for granted every day. Dan gives his brother’s family as much money as he can. It is mind blowing how much Dan does for the community as well as his family.
Oh and by the way- I have an address you guys can mail anything you would like to donate… a really good idea is glow sticks (you know those silly ones you crack for light?). Well there is not electricity here and they are so hopeful. Sam brought two and the people here have never seen them before (their jaws dropped). They are two for one dollar at Walmart, and you guys should send some!
Another note- Malea, I got compliments on your anklet!
Laura- you would hate it here… there are stray and dying dogs everywhere. Yesterday we saw a pregnant one with lots of puppies! People don’t really have them for pets here… they just roam around aimlessly.
Milo- the cd you burned me was a huge hit… I love it so much. Sam has very similar music taste to us so she loves it too. “Paper planes” is her favorite. Thanks again… oh and tell Belz SIIIJAAAAAAMMBOOOOOO!!

5/25/08
Golden Slumbers
So you may wonder why I picked this Beatles’ title for the blog. Perhaps it’s because Sam and I got 120391039 million hours of sleep. Yesterday the power went out for a long time (Dan is lucky enough to have electricity, as am I). With nothing else to do but read I eventually fell asleep. I’m starting to get a little sick – I’m sure it’s just adjusting to the new temperature, and very different air. I slept most of the afternoon, but woke up to go out to K-2, a club, in Nairobi. Two new Canadians arrived at the place today, but they will only be staying a few days. A boy and girl from the U.K. will be arriving on Monday as well. Anyway, so the nightlife here was so great. I felt pretty sick, but I couldn’t let the Canadians show up us Americans. The club was great, and I got two rum and cokes. I also tried some of the main Kenyan beer called Tusker. It tasted just like Coors to me. I was asked to dance by one of Dan’s friends…it was both hilarious and plenty fun. I’d say we danced for maybe 2 hours, and we definitely did not care how we looked- just the way I like it. They actually played a lot of west-life music like Shania Twain? Yeh WHATEVER. We requested the Spice Girls, but they didn’t have it.
So on to today…we were so exhausted we slept until noon. After we woke up we laid outside for a little because it was Sunday so there wasn’t much to do.
PICTURE OF FLOWER
I’ve been reading a lot- right now I’m finishing “Not On Our Watch.” It is written with a great background on Darfur, and what we can do to help. The power of the individual is highlighted quite heavily throughout the novel. It really makes you aware that while an event that can be as overwhelming as genocide in Darfur can really start and end with the power of one. The power of one is an incredible thing. I have not been here long at all, but I have become submerged completely in my feelings of inability on one or two occasions, but you just have to breathe…take it in…and figure out what is best to do. Here is a line that sums up the book pretty well…
The efforts of one individual -no matter how flawed, how scarred, or how seemingly small – can save a huge number of lives (101).


I had my first experience at the Massai market today. This is DEFINITELY where I’ll be getting all your souvenirs. It was fun talking to all the people, and trying to barter. Rachel, I picked out a lot of stuff for LD already. One man gave Sam and I a free decorated egg. I don’t know what to do with an egg, but hey it was free. The people there are hilarious, especially when they think they can scam us. The Massai market is every Sunday so I’ll make sure to go back later in the trip to get you guys presents.
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05/27/08
A Hard Day’s Night
I think I am finding adjusting to the people here harder than the conditions with which I am living. It is difficult to be separated from my friends at home…especially you Laur since I spent pretty much my every waking second with you. Yesterday was a busy day at the orphanage, and I did enjoy it. Today was a pretty lame day. We got caught up in town with the 4 new Americans, and Sam and I were not happy. It was a complete waste of a day, and I feel entirely unproductive. With all the free time I found myself missing home a lot even though it has only been a week. The mind is left to wander when it has time to think freely. I really hope that within this trip I not only help others, but they help me. I’m not sure what I hope to accomplish within this journey, but I feel very strongly that I was sitting still at home.. missing something. Whatever it is I’m missing I hope I find a piece of it. Every one says that to be happy with someone else you first have to be happy alone…I don’t know if that’s really possible. Anyway, I’m missing all of you a lot. I am completely out of my comfort zone, but I know it is for the best!